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Where Xutos gets a close up view of commie think too

Chasing Free Marketeers in Havana


By Nathaniel Hoffman, 4-22-07

Posing with Che

People ask me one of two things about my trip: Did you bring back any cigars? and, What is Cuba like?

They are both tough questions to answer. The former could be incriminating. And the latter would take a dozen blog entries. But I will attempt to begin an answer here and may post more in the coming weeks.

Cuba is not an easy place to visit. If you just want to go on vacation, you can go there and sit on the beach and drink mojitos and have a fine time. Though Mexico would be cheaper.

But if you want a window into a parallel economic universe, a world that could have been, it is a fascinating place to visit. Cuba is completely free of marketing, of advertising. The only billboards you see are slogans from the revolution or pictures of Che. Or propaganda against the Bush Administration.

On television there are public service ads, but no commercials.

And there are no Starbucks or McDonalds.

One day while I was there I sat next to Idaho Gov. Butch Otter on a bus and told him that I had not been to McDonalds for 25 years. He seemed surprised and I didn’t explain myself very well.

“You just don’t like the grease?” he asked me.

I told him I like variety, but the answer is much more complex.

McDonalds, to both of us, is a symbol of capitalism and of American power in the world. Otter called every McDonalds in the world a little US embassy.

“Listen, you give me enough French fries, disco records and Levis and get rid of the State Department and we can get rid of the entire diplomatic corps. We can change the world,” Otter said.

I agree, but this change that has already infiltrated much of the planet, has not necessarily been for the better.

It’s not that the restaurants in Cuba are that great. Sometimes they have cheese for cheese burgers. Sometimes they don’t. Often the bathrooms are less than hygienic. Often there is no soap.

And like McDonalds, the restaurants in Cuba are all controlled by a large corporate conglomerate. It’s called the Cuban government.

But. And this is going to sound crazy to most people. The lack of chain stores and mass marketing there leaves the Cuban mind more free than ours.

Now, Cuba is far from an open society. Cubans told me themselves that they are not free to protest or disagree publicly with the state.

But in terms of consumption and choice, Cubans are more free than us.

Growing up under socialism has freed the young generation in Cuba to think about more important things. One 30-something guy I spoke to complained that he had no money. That he had to work side jobs just to make ends meet. (I failed to mention that millions of Americans do the same).

But I asked him what he would do with more money.

“I’d take a trip,” he told me.

It was not about new cars or bigger houses for him. He just wanted to go somewhere and see something.

That’s one freedom that I cherish. Traveling and seeing how things work in other places in the world.

And perhaps that is my biggest beef with McD. The golden arches are well travelled. Sure. But, like many American travelers, they bring way too much baggage with them and take nothing home.

Now, I’m not saying I brought anything specific home from Cuba. But this, my second trip there, opened up my eyes to a world where getting ahead is not the goal. Where life and beauty and music and dance are the goals.

I’m sure there is a happy medium there somewhere and someday I will find it.

That’s all for now.

Editor’s note: Nathaniel Hoffman was the only Idaho reporter to make it to Cuba with Governor Butch Otter and his entourage.



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