Missoula News

Column: Missoula's Dish

Moving Scotty’s Table

By Danielle Lattuga, 5-01-08

Stained Glass, Boughton Studios

I am leaning up against the rectangle of glass, my elbows pressed firmly into it, forming a triangle around my face, so that my hands can shield me from the reflections of Mt. Sentinel and Mt. Jumbo framed in April blue. The tip of my nose is flat against the glass too. When I breathe, the picture before me blurs and then slowly clears. Focus, fade, focus, fade. 

I want in. I want to see if it feels any different, because this stillness is different than the stillness that occurs at the interface of waking and sleeping. This is the stillness that slides into a place when it is about to transform, in shape, utility and energy.

Through the blur of my nose print, I look at the polished green bar and can’t help but wonder if Riedel wine glasses bounce differently on wood than they do on concrete. I hear the resonant hum of glass against stone and then hum a few bars from the Sade song that started (and finished) many an evening at 529 S. Higgins. I press a palm against the glass and take a deep breath, trying to swallow all the stories locked inside.

In the next few weeks, many a nose print will be added to mine, as patrons and friends peek into what was Scotty’s Table for seven years. Then they will read the sign and likely amble over the Clark Fork River in the changeable spring breeze, catching rainbows, storm clouds and eagles in flight before entering the Wilma, where a larger, warmer room now cradles the Missoula restaurant. 

Over the past few years, I’ve heard many a Missoulian lament the fact that they could no longer enjoy a meal in what previously existed as Marianne’s.  The purchase of the Wilma spurred talk of its revival and people were curious about what restaurant would come to occupy the coveted space. Rumors flew. It was fun.

When Scott and Katie Gill came clean about moving Scotty’s Table, one rumor became truth and I ran across a healthy mix of “That’s great,” and “Oh, geez, that’s a big change.” People seemed genuinely thrilled to have a good restaurant moving in, and naturally wary of the change to a place that they’ve come to know and love.

Aside from the benefit of the Gills now owning the space that houses the restaurant, the pair cites several additional advantages, although one is emphasized repeatedly. 

During a rare moment in the last year, when Scott and Katie are sitting still, Scott leans back in his chair and looks me in the eye, in the way so characteristic of his sincere nature. “This is an opportunity—for us to build on what we have. We are grateful to our customers, because they have afforded us this opportunity to take what we have created and refine it. This isn’t just about changing location. It’s about our philosophy of evolution- continually transforming and improving the food and the service.”

***
It’s Sunday afternoon, and the sun sheds soft heat on the patio outside. The staff of Scotty’s Table is lined up on the new banquette that faces Caras Park. The tables are not up yet. A layer of dust covers everything.

I’ve asked them to talk about their role in the restaurant. And I am not shocked when I hear the responses, because even though the faces of the staff have changed in recent years, the principals of the restaurant have not. There is a current of excitement running from one individual to the next and it carries key components of the vision: Passion for well presented, flavorful, local, sustainable food. Knowledge of your product and commitment to your community. Creativity, evolution, and pride. Dedication to quality service. Sustainability. Respect. These are the words that they use to describe themselves and with them, I hear the voices of the numerous customers who choose to gather at Scotty’s Table to share a meal for exactly the same reasons.

But then there’s more. 

“We have a farmer’s market right out the door!”

“This, this is an amazing space, and we get to be part of a historic building.”

“This is a chance to do it all even better.”

There are writers, travelers, environmentalists, artists, animal-lovers, film-makers, actors, chefs, anthropologists, students, and dreamers sitting in front of me. Yet, regardless of who they are within, they are people who want to be part of this.  And I admit, as I am standing here, amidst the dust, that I want to be part of it too. It just feels right.

We all know that the “feel” of a place is only one element that makes a restaurant successful. But that’s the thing about moving Scotty’s Table.  The other elements are already in place, and the move has been made with recognition of why it’s possible and the opportunity it presents.  It will only get better from here.

. . . and it does. When you walk into the new Scotty’s Table, it asks you to take a deep breath.  You are enticed to look up. You will find refined tones of vibrant color and appealing lines. The wood floors will still creak beneath your shoes, but they are finished cleanly and polished invitingly. Comfortable booths and table nooks will still wrap around you, but there is room to sprawl a little without elbowing the customers at the next table. 

The restaurant is nearly full.  There’s a good crowd, but one of my companions remarks, “We can hear each other, without having to raise our voices.”

The music lingers above us, only filling in the lulls, not adding to the discordant chatter that comes with any busy restaurant.

It’s a big room.  It feels grand, but cozy at the same time. There is a sense of intimacy that lingers and deepens even though this space is at least twice the size of the other. People wander around tonight, and take pictures.

Over and over we hear, “It’s beautiful, it’s beautiful, it’s beautiful.”

And the food is still part of the beauty, presented artistically, efficiently and with pride.  The sensations that evoked my original love for the place are only enhanced: Smoky paprika aioli with scallops and sweet potato cakes. The full round red heat of Cioppino with the subtle earthiness of a good Tempranillo blend.  The lean open tenderness of a bison steak matched with mouth watering bleu cheese . . . 

It seems that the once angular sometimes, boisterous girl has become a curvaceous, elegant, (and even more delightful) woman. And still, her eyes are on the spaces she can embellish, refine and nurture.

“People will ask us, what are you going to put there?  What are you going to do with that?  And that’s what we want, we want to continue to grow in this space and we want our customers and friends to tell us what they envision, because they’re part of it too.  They’ve helped to make us who we are.” Katie says this, as we glance around the restaurant at the floors, the curtains, the stained glass, the gracefully subtle painting on the far wall; all created by local artists and craftspeople.

And it’s almost time to open the doors again, to invite the rest of the neighbors back in—to feel the spring air brush against the fresh but familiar splendor.

Scotty’s Table, in the basement of the Wilma, will open for business Sunday, May 4th at 5 p.m.  Scotty’s will continue to serve lunch from 11 a.m. to 2:30, and dinner from 5 p.m. until closing. For reservations, call 549-2790.

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