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CIVILITY IS A WONDERFUL THING

Road Rage for Cyclists Embarrassing, Dangerous, Un-American
Riding Going to the Sun Road in Glacier National Park. Photo by Reed Gregerson.

If even one driver who hates cyclists reads this column (and next week’s column), I’ll not only consider it well worth the time I spent writing it, but also a big victory for public safety.

The vast majority of motorists courteously and safely share roadways with cyclists, but a very small minority not only aren’t courteous, but for some unexplainable reason fill up with rage whenever they see cyclists on the road ahead. Anybody who regularly rides bicycles on paved roadways knows about this minority. They not only think cyclists have no right to use public roadways but also show their anger by shouting obscenities and giving out the universal salute and even do all sorts of outright dangerous things like coming up behind cyclists blaring their horns, purposely passing inches from handlebars at high speed, or throwing beer cans and other objects, which become lethal missiles for somebody on a bicycle.

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YOU CAN'T KEEP SOMETHING LIKE THIS SECRET

The Other Libby
One of Todd Berget's amazing pieces of art welcomes us all to the City of Eagles and the Rexford Bridge across Koocanusa Reservoir. Photos by Bill Schneider. Enjoying Kootenai Falls. Photo courtesy of Donnie Sexton, Travel Montana.

When you hear the word, Libby, what do you think?

Not good, eh?

The micropolis of far northwestern Montana makes a lot of headlines, but it seems like it’s never good news.

When I bring up the subject down at the coffee shop or taproom, most people start talking about asbestos, the corporate greed of W.R. Grace, and people gradually dying because of it…or about a remote timber town swamped in the wake of the implosion of the wood products industry, closed mills, unemployed loggers…or about red-necked, AR-15-toting, arch-conservatives hiding out in remote cabins, driving around in camo-colored Jeeps, scouring the skies for black helicopters….or an Appalachia-esque community fraught with economic despair that doesn’t welcome outsiders.

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A PROCLAMATION

Obama Proclaims September as National Wilderness Month
President Obama pondering the Grand Canyon. What is he thinking? Photo courtesy of The White House Press Office.

Editor’s note: On September 3, 2009, the 45th anniversary of the Wilderness Act of 1964, President Obama issued this statement applauding the Act and proclaiming September as National Wilderness Month. It comes shortly after he took his family on a quasi-vacation to see some of the wonders of our national park system such as Old Faithful and the Grand Canyon. Enjoy....Bill Schneider

The American wilderness has inspired wonder and imagination for centuries and is an irreplaceable part of our Nation’s heritage. Even before the birth of the United States, visitors from near and far were struck by its splendor and purity. The unaltered American landscape stood apart from any other in the world. During the years of westward expansion, the wilderness frontier became synonymous with pioneer values of steadfastness and rugged independence. This month, we celebrate this history and renew our commitment to preserving the American wilderness for future generations.

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COMING SOON AND ON TRACK

The Second Night of the Grizzlies
The killer bear from Trout Lake, a 42-year-old photo by Bert Gildart.

On August 13, 1967, exactly 42 years ago, as I start to write this column, everything changed for the grizzly and everybody managing the national parks where the bears live. It’s a well-known tragedy--two young women killed and partly consumed by two separate grizzly bears in two separate locations on the same frightful night, all so expertly chronicled by Jack Olson in Night of the Grizzlies, which might be the best selling outdoor book ever.

I was in college at the time, spending my summers working on Glacier’s trail crew. The park usually pulled us off the trails in August to fight forest fires. That’s what I was doing on that night, sitting in a fire camp on Apgar Mountain a few miles away from Trout Lake and Granite Park, the sites of the fatal maulings. All of us on the fire crew were huddled around a campfire listening to bits and pieces of broken transmissions coming over our fire radios, trying to figure out what was going on, but knowing it was bad.

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SASKATCHEWAN FISHING LODGES

Twin Falls Lodge, A River Runs Through It
Watching canoeists from the deck, a group shore lunch, one of many Churchill River walleyes, and the historic church and cemetery at nearby Stanley Mission. Photos by Bill Schneider and Gene Colling. Video by Gene Colling.

“Eventually, all things merge into one, and a river runs through it.”

That’s Norman Maclean’s frequently quoted brilliance from his book, A River Runs Through It, and what you can’t help thinking about when staying at Twin Falls Lodge in northern Saskatchewan.

It isn’t Montana’s Blackfoot River Maclean made famous, but the mighty Churchill River, which flows freely through a series of sprawling lakes long-gone glaciers gouged out of the Precambrian Shield. These lakes essentially become wide spots in the river. The Cree name for the river is Missinipe or Great Water, and I couldn’t imagine a better description.

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THE GOOD OF THE MANY OUWEIGHS THE GOOD OF THE ONE

Killing Bears to Save Bears
Most grizzlies so expertly avoid us, we don't even know how close we came. Photo courtesty of Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks.

“The good of the one is outweighed by the good of the many.”

That’s one of my favorite quotations ever because it applies to so many issues. It comes from The Wrath of Khan, my favorite Star Trek movie (yep, still a Trekkie, even at my age), and so brilliantly offered by none other than Mr. Spock.

But what does it have to do with bears? A lot, it seems.

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PARADISE FOUND

Cycling Kootenai Country
Riding along the Kootenai River, Yaak Falls and Wild Bill crossing the Rexford Bridge over Koocanusa Reservoir. Photos by Bill Schneider and Reed Gregerson.

Attention road cyclists. Where can you ride 90 miles straight on smoothly paved, pothole-free roadways; almost devoid of motor vehicles; all lined with fantastic scenery, but no fences, telephone poles, or buildings?

We cyclists all know the answer to that, right? Not many places. But I found one right here in northwestern Montana.

Having been an avid cyclist for decades, I'd frequently heard about the terrific cycling opportunities in Kootenai Country, but for some reason, I never made time to experience it. I finally had my chance this summer. [more]

ROADHOUSE REBORN AS BISTRO

The Not-So-Dirty Shame Saloon
Not-so-Wild Bill at the Dirty Shame Saloon and Don Belcher, new owner. Photos by Will Selser and Bill Schneider.

For decades I've been hearing about the Dirty Shame Saloon in Yaak, Montana. Some of the stories I heard sent a shiver up my spine and made it sound like one of those rowdy roadhouses of the Deep South where hippies entered and never were heard from again. It is, so the stories go, the type of establishment non-locals might want to avoid, especially if you're decked out in Lycra, and if you dare enter, don't accidentally have eye contact with the wrong person or his girlfriend.

Finally, at least two decades late, I had my chance to check it out, and it was almost a disappointment to learn that, nowadays, the most dangerous thing in the Dirty Shame Saloon is Double Haul IPA. [more]

SASKATCHEWAN FISHING LODGES

Pine Island Resort: A Lot of Fishing Spiced With a Little Luxury
Another big pike hits the net, a glimpse of Pine Island Resort's scenic location, camp managers Vickie and Bart Bricksaw, and enjoying a special moment after a hearty shore lunch. Photos by Bill Schneider.

The first thing you do when going to Pine Island Resort for the fishing adventure of a lifetime is go to the Osprey Wings floatplane base in Missinipe, Saskatchewan. If you're lucky, you'll get to chat with Gary Thompson, owner of both the floatplane service and the resort.

Thompson has been around a long time, and along the way, he has fielded all the stupid questions anglers can ask and has answers ready. For example, when we went in to check in for our short flight to Pine Island Resort, we could hardly find a place to park, so, stupid me, I asked why so many vehicles parked around the base. He quickly replied, "Those belong to all the people we flew out somewhere, but forgot where we took them."

He was joking, eh?

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THE FLIP SIDE OF ENERGY INDEPENDENCE

Leasing Blue Ribbon Fisheries
Kerry Fee and Adam Arnold fishing the Yellowstone (Photo by Corey Fisher) and Corey Fisher with a nice Yellowstone brown. Photo by Daniel Person.

Last week, I was down on the mighty Yellowstone, the longest, free-flowing river in the Continental United States, drift fishing with Trout Unlimited (TU) and talking energy independence.

Unknown to many anglers, the federal government, through the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), is currently developing management plans for oil and gas leasing on land it manages, mostly in western states, 32 million acres right in Montana, including 906,000 acres in the Billings Resource Area where we were fishing. Three blue ribbon trout streams (Yellowstone, Stillwater and Boulder) and many key tributaries flow right through it. [more]