Trippin' With Scott
Big Creek Lake and Big, Scary Animals
By Scott Poniewaz, 7-12-05
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In my last column we visited Morrell Falls near Seeley, this week we’ll venture south of Missoula and head to the Bitterroots for an overnight trip to Big Creek Lake. I must say, whoever named this one picked deep into the creative side of their brain, because it also happens to be the largest alpine lake in the Bitterroots. The woman that initially answered the phone at the Stevensville ranger station even had to ask, “Big Creek Lake, where is that?” To which I responded, it is at the top of Big Creek, spawning laughter on both sides of the telephone.
Since I’ve been out of town, I am digging into my reserves for a trip.
I actually did this getaway last Fall, but I don’t think the trail moved
much, so I feel pretty comfortable using my beta from then.
After all the talk about bears in my last column, this hike came to mind, because
well, its the last bear encounter that I’ve had. Don’t let it scare
you though, its a beautiful 9 mile trek to an alpine lake that offers opportunities
for wildlife sightings. The trail is utilized by hikers and horseback riders
alike and I came across a family with an interesting method. They hired someone
to haul their gear up on horseback, while the whole family (young children and
all) hiked in. I have known of that method for re-rationing on long wilderness
excursions, but never had I thought about using it to make remote camping a
little more accessible without having to get saddle legs.
As I said about wildlife sightings, this trip was probably the best I’ve
had, I was able to see a moose and a mother bear with her two cubs. I should
correct myself though, I did not actually see the cubs, I just heard about them
when I came up to the hiking family up trail and they asked me if I saw the
mother AND her cubs...umm, no, probably for the better.
You see, I was hiking along by myself (I went out for the night on my own, though not recommended unless you are experienced in the backcountry) and
came around a bend doing the usual bear safety protocol by clapping and shouting
“hey bear” repetitively as if they actually understand I’m
talking directly to them. About 50 feet ahead through the trees, I saw a black
hair patch round the corner and thought to myself that I’m catching up
to someone. As I get closer, I start to realize the trail doesn’t go to
the right, it goes to the left, and now I start to get a little concerned. Maybe
it was a girl and she knew I was a lone male, so she decided to hide until I
passed just to be safe. I know its a little far-fetched, but anything to keep
from convincing myself that its something waiting to maul me and leave me for
dead.
With that realization that something is a little fishy I armed myself with my
bear spray and kept making noise and looking around the woods for the animal
lurking out there. I finally spot it when its about 15 feet away and perpendicular
to the trail. Oh shit! is about the only thing running through my head
at this point, so I convince myself to remain calm and keep talking to the bear,
recalling everything I know about how to deter a bear attack, I don’t
turn my back, am looking at the ground trying to steal glances at the foraging
mother and slowly walking backwards. I’m starting to get further away,
so I figure I should be safe. I resumed my hike from there and felt pretty impressed
with my composure after the fact. It was the first time I actually had a close
bear encounter. When I found out the mama black bear was with her two cubs,
I took a big sigh of relief that I didn’t see them. I know how protective
mothers are of their children, but apparently, like most Missoula area people,
this big mama was pretty relaxed in our encounter.
Following the excitement, I couldn’t help but jump every time I heard
branch break off a tree, or a breeze come through the trees. After the quick
hike in, which didn’t even feel like 9 miles, I picked out my prime waterfront
real estate, took a quick dip in the lake, then baked a nice cheese pizza to
munch on while the sun set over the Bitterroots.
Getting there:
Take Montana Highway 93 south about 16 miles to Bell Xing (marked with a blinking
yellow light) near Stevensville. Take a right on to Bell Xing and go 0.5 miles
to Meridian Road and take another right. You’ll start to see signs taking
you 2.8 miles to a fork in the road, you’ll veer right here and continue
to the Big Creek trailhead, which is 1.8 miles away.
Hiking directions:
The trail is well-marked and leads you along the creek for most of the way with sandy beaches and several small pour-over waterfalls giving plenty of areas for beautiful resting points. There is one fork in the trail, which is well marked about 7 miles up the trail, where you’ll want to take the right turn. For the final push you have to work a little bit as the trail climbs to the dam where the lake empties into Big Creek. You’ll get to the top and it opens into a vast valley that offers great opportunities for day hikes and peak ascents if you spend a couple extra days and set camp at the lake, which sits at an elevation of 5,865 feet. The return route is the same.