By Chris La Tray, 8-13-08
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| Caption: Mmmm . . . tater pig. . . . | |
In my youth, the Western Montana Fair was the pinnacle of the summer. I was a 4-H kid (I even remember the pledge, for crissakes!), and my sisters and I always had projects to enter; mostly animals, but some other stuff too. I did okay with a couple cooking entries, was mediocre when I tried my hand at photography, got reserve champion one year with my dog obedience entry (an Irish Setter named Mandy) and failed miserably with veterinary science. I always had a pig to sell, had a sheep one year, and a steer another. In those days kids could enter more than one animal, so we always had quite the menagerie in our little barnyard at home.
The fair was more than the culmination of a season of 4-H activities, it was the social event of the year. There were friends from other clubs around the area that we only saw for these few days in late summer. My folks would park a camper in the camping area – the upper NW corner of the fairgrounds – and my sister and I (Mitzi, who was closest to me in age, as my oldest sister, Nikki, had moved on by the time I got involved) would live there for the week. My sister had her own pack of friends she ran with, and I had mine: Mark and Gina Cranston, friends I had come up through the 4-H ranks with. Others were part of our little crew that hung out in the pig barn; we’d joke around, hang out with other kids from other clubs, fall in and out of crushes, and basically just have a ball. Our domain was the dust and dirt of the barn areas – from the pig barn to the 4-H Café and beyond to the cinderblock building that housed the restrooms, and sometimes even into the stands to watch the horseracing. Rarely did we venture into the carnival, though the main thoroughfare of food stands and booths that ran between the 4-H building and the commercial building saw our grubby faces from time to time.
Despite how much I hated the last day/night of the fair, and the realization of where our animals, pets by now, were headed, I have nothing but fond memories of my years as a 4-H kid and a participant in what made the fair so awesome. One of my regrets is the moving around we’ve done did not allow me to get my son into 4-H, though who knows if he would have been interested in it. Times are different now.
Which is why I have mostly avoided going to the fair at all over the last decade or so, and why, when I do go, the experience is at best bittersweet.
Julia and I entered the fair Friday night through the gate that faces Russell Street; we were hardly 20 paces in when we started encountering tents peddling obnoxious commercial shit. I passed it all, passed the obnoxious Rock Band booth (Rock the Game. Get the Look. Live the Life.), and finally emerged into a familiar place: the hallowed ground where the Sons of Norway have long been selling their delicious Vikings and Rosettes. I took two, thank you. And of course we had to sample a mouthwatering tater pig from the Rocky Mountainaires booth. From there, we caught the last couple events of the rodeo and enjoyed ourselves immensely.
With greasy fair food in our bellies, we walked through the exhibits in the various buildings, eyeing flower arrangements, photo essays, brownies on plates and vegetables floating in liquid. Familiar sights all, if somewhat sparse from what I remember. It seems to me that, back in the day, these rickety old buildings were bursting with offerings vying for the coveted purple and blue ribbons, but not so much now. Who knows, that could have just been the sensation of things seeming smaller than memory provides, when one “grows up.” The commercial building seemed most down in the heels, but in kind of a quirky, “this is how a fair is supposed to be” kind of way. McGowan Soft Water was there – they have been there as long as I can remember, only they didn’t seem to be giving out the little Indian headbands with their logo emblazoned on them that I remember.
It is an odd collection of vendors in the commercial building, where you have the Pro Choice Montana booth right next to the Right to Lifers, and the pro-gun lobby. Plenty of Jesus-loving folks too, offering us literature and promises for eternal life if we’d just stop and listen. SHEC had a replica of The General Lee, Bo and Luke Duke’s hotrod from The Dukes of Hazzard TV show. What that has to do with Jesus, I don’t know. Upstairs, Julia got a 10 minute Chinese massage; we never had those back in the day either, that I recall.
Moving over to the barnyard, I proceeded to get pretty bummed out. Back in my day we had a separate beef building, separate dairy and sheep buildings, and the beloved pig barn stood off by itself, just at the bottom of the hill that led up to all the campers and trailers. Besides barn-side camping being long abolished, those buildings are all gone, replaced by two hockey arenas. Tearing out all the old barns and putting the ground under ice may make for a better use of space year-round, and also bring something to the city that is pretty cool (no pun intended), but it definitely doesn’t feel like fair space to me anymore. Now, with the indoor arena still resounding to the smack of skates and sticks, the outdoor arena is converted into one large barn for all of the animals to be housed, with few exceptions. And what about the barns to the south, where the poultry had been, and the wash area, and the goat barns? Given over to more obnoxious commercial booths. The only commercial operation on this side of the grounds back when we ran roughshod over the place was the 4-H Café!
I expect the 4-H kids today are having as much fun as we did, why wouldn’t they? It just seems like there are fewer of them, and that the elements of the fair that I loved most – the parts that deal with 4-H and FFA exhibits and animals and all that – are being squeezed into smaller and smaller pockets by commercial peddlers. Maybe this is just an example where in our adulthood we look with dismay at changed versions of things we loved in our youth, but it doesn’t feel that way. It feels somehow reduced, less innocent, perhaps.
I don’t know if I’ll go next year. It’s hard to avoid, given that from Tuesday until Sunday the sounds echo in my house like it is all happening right next door, because it practically is. Despite the fun of the early part of the evening, I returned home glum and thoughtful. I missed the old vibe, the old feeling that this week was one big shindig where country folk all came together to kick up their heels a little bit. It could be it is still like that and I was just missing it, I don’t know. Maybe I’m just bummed because I forgot to get a big chunk of fry bread. That, and that I didn’t go back for more Vikings.
For more fair pictures and anecdotes, visit La Tray’s almost daily Stumbling the Walk blog!
I don't think it's just a case of seeing the fair through a (relatively, of course) older man's eyes, Chris. The number exhibits and entries have diminished over the years--I've seen it happen over the 18 years I've lived here in Missoula. I went on Sunday to play a little bingo, eat a Viking and some fry bread, check on my entries (a jar of raspberry jam and and a jar of sour cherry jelly; I didn't win any ribbons) and say hello to the animals. When I walked upstairs in the Commercial Building and saw that vast, empty space, my heart sank. I hate it that all the animals are now crammed into a tiny corner of the fairgrounds. It's sad to see all the traditional fair stuff disappear to be replaced by more and more cheap, tacky commercial vendors. I mean, designer knock-off Naugahyde handbags at the Russell entrance? Meh.
I guess the fair, like everything else, is a victim of changing times and tastes.
It sounds to me like the River City Roots Festival is totally kicking the Fair's ass these days. I don't know how you can have a great Fair in a town where you don't even have a decent (let alone a top-shelf) Honky-Tonk. I can't remember the last time I saw a cowboy hat on anybody who wasn't Rob Quist or Bob Wire. Just try buying a pair of Tony Lamas in this town. Good luck. I'm sad about this, and hell, I don't even like the Fair. Maybe I'm not that sad. I don't know. I'm totally confused.
Comment By Rain, 8-13-08Well put as when I visited the Western Montana fair two years ago, I was very disappointed. I was in the area for the fishing and camping but was thrilled that the fair was on. I thought it'd be really something coming from Montana but it was as you described. I come from Western Oregon and we still have country fairs where I live which is still everything you remembered. Come on over to Polk County's fair sometime and see it like you remembered.
Comment By Nick D, 8-13-08My biggest gripe about the Western Montana Fair lately is the sheer Dominionist theme it's taken up. It seems like every other attraction or act is Evangelical in nature. Just feels like it isn't my fair anymore, and I'd imagine there are a lot of people who don't feel represented either. I know sponsors are important, but allowing yourself to be co-opted isn't quite the same thing.
Comment By Bob Wire, 8-13-08We hadn't gone to the Western Montana fair for a couple of years, and now I remember why. At the risk of spoiling a good thing, let me say that the Ravalli County Fair is the shiznit. Lots of cowboy hats.
Comment By Peter MAdian, 8-14-08When i see this place First time i thing is not Cheerful.
But after when i Vist Other Places I think i am Wrong and in this place i enjoy Fishing .
Peter madian
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How wonderful you got to grow up at the fair, Chris. I watched my friend's three daughters participate in 4-H (mostly pigs) over the last 10 years or so, and it was so much fun for me to live it vicariously. I adore the fair, especially all the traditional stuff. I can see how difficult it must be for you to watch it changing.
I have entered pies a few times (honorable mention this year) and it occurs to me that the only person who taught me to bake them is Martha Stewart.
The agrarian cultural heritage of this entire country is gone or going. Montana and some of the Rockies and Midwest are really the last bastions of traditional farming and ranching. When family farms get gobbled up by corporate monocultures and farmland gives way to subdivisions, the old-fashioned country fair will inevitably be a casualty.
Oh, by the way, I loved your Tater Pig video!
Comment By Chris, 8-14-08Thanks for all the comments. I'm hoping my parents have some photos from back in the day when we would go, the grounds have changed so much. I know that's inevitable, but it was sure cool back then!
Definitely going to go check out the Ravalli County Fair as well. We used to go there once in a while when I was a kid; I might even wear MY cowboy hat!