The Best Bike Ride in the New West

By Bill Schneider, 8-06-05

Last Friday was GAG day for two friends and me. We may have started an annual tradition, the annual Geezers Around Glacier ride (Yes, there are some minimum age requirements). Unlike many of my planned adventures, it turned out pretty much as planned. Along the way, we concluded that our chosen route, the loop around the southern half of Glacier National Park, must be the best long bike ride in the Rocky Mountain West, if not anywhere.

The route starts and finishes at West Glacier. It goes over three official passes and one hill as steep as most passes. It’s long, 140 miles, almost all going either up or down. Definitely a full day’s work, but worth the effort. Plan on at least eight hours riding time, plus a couple more hours for stops for espresso, ice cream, cheeseburgers or fresh huckleberry pie.

The three of us have been over in Europe riding in the Alps and Dolomites, and the scenery on this route rivals anything over there. In fact, the route would make a great stage in the Tour de France, and be one of the most scenic in the big race.

A note of caution, however. This is not for the person who just bought his or her first road bike and hasn’t logged a lot of miles. To do this in a single day requires a high level of fitness and a good, well-maintained road bike. For those who don’t feel up to the one-day challenge, you could do it in two days or even three by reserving motel rooms in either St. Mary or East Glacier or both.

Also, watch the weather forecast. You absolutely need good weather; don’t even think about doing it on a rainy day.

The National Park Service has special bicycle regulations for Going to the Sun Road, which won’t be a problem if you start early. However, be aware that bicycles are prohibited from 11 am to 4 pm on the road along Lake MacDonald (going east or west) and on Logan Pass going east-bound (uphill) from June 15 through Labor Day. Check www.nps.gov/glac for details.

So to stay legal, start early. We started at first light, which gave us the most pleasant temperature and minimal traffic all the way to Logan Pass, 35 miles total but only 10 miles of serious climbing. Leaving at dawn also increases your chance of seeing wildlife. Catching a glimpse of a grizzly along the road would have been the only thing that could have made our trip better.

While resting and snacking on top of the pass, I couldn’t help saying, “Well, guys, only 105 miles to go.�

After our stop at the Logan Pass Visitor Center, we zoomed down to St. Mary for coffee and a raspberry-white chocolate scone at the St. Mary Lodge. We left so early that my two biking buddies didn’t get their caffeine fix, and they needed it! That was a glitch in our planning, no doubt. Next year, I’ll bring some coffee beans for them to chew on.

After a half hour in the coffee shop, they were all smiles and ready to tackle the huge, unnamed hill right out of St. Mary, six miles long and arguably almost as difficult as Logan Pass. After cresting this hill, we had a roller coaster ride through the transition zone on the western edge of the Blackfeet Reservation where the prairie melts into the mountains and makes a fascinating mix of vegetation. Then up Looking Glass Pass, which is the same elevation as Logan Pass, and in its own way, just as scenic—but unknown to most tourists. It’s shorter, though, only a three-mile climb, followed by an easy twelve-mile descent into East Glacier. I actually enjoyed the trip between St. Mary and East Glacier as much as the famous Going to the Sun Highway through the park.

Here, while having a wonderful lunch at a quaint little restaurant called The Thimbleberry, I said, “only 60 miles to go.�

The hardest part of the trip is coming out of East Glacier and heading up to Marias Pass. This climb is quite gradual, but routinely made more difficult by a stiff headwind that feels like you’re riding into a giant hair drier. We expected this, and we got it.

Once on Marias Pass, you’re still looking at 43 miles back to that cooler of cold beer waiting for you at West Glacier, but it’s all downhill or river grade spiced with a few small hills. We made it even easier with a nice rest stop at the Walton Ranger Station Campground. From Walton, U.S. 2 follows the Middle Fork of the Flathead River, offering up even more outstanding scenery and opportunities to park your bike and take a dip to cool off a hot day. Surprising, as a capper on a great trip, a mild wind blew over the Middle Fork up onto the road, like natural air conditioning, turning a 90 degree day into a 80 degree day;

If you try this trip, be physically prepared for this mileage. It’s a gorgeous bike ride, but tough. The goal is feeling good at the end, not how fast you climb the passes. Drink lots of liquid and eat lots of food and rest frequently, so still have legs when you reach Marias Pass. If you don’t do this, you’ll pay the price, and this might not be the best bike ride of your life.
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For me, it was one of those rare days when all the stars are aligned—excellent weather and road conditions, no flats or other bike mechanicals, body felt great, reasonable amount of traffic mostly interested in courteously sharing the road with cyclists. Definitely makes me want to do it again. [End of article]