Getaways
How To Do Yellowstone in Winter
You don't have to be a champion tour skier to experience Yellowstone at its quietest, loveliest time.By Gigi Ragland, 11-10-10
![]() |
|
| As it was, it still is. Winter in Yellowstone is not to be missed. Photo by Flickr user reivax. | |
In winter, Yellowstone National Park is nature’s crystal cathedral. The landscape transforms into a marvel of textures and shapes all sparkling with an icy diamond allure. It’s why ski-touring or snowshoeing here is a completely unique experience. Imagine skiing near thermal features that exist nowhere else as herd of bison moves across the distance.
I’m reminiscing about a trail I ski-toured at Yellowstone not too far from the snow lodge where I stayed. It led to “white” water crossing, not the fast-river running type of crossing we’re used to. The scenery was stunning. Diamond icy crystals dripped from rocks forming icefalls, pristine white snow blanketed the landscape offering up tracks of the elusive snow hare. I completed a round of turns and the overlook gave way to the valley below with puffing geysers sending off signals that filled the sky. It took my breath away, literally and figuratively. Truly, a winter vacation in Yellowstone is an overwhelmingly beautiful experience. That is, if you can stand the cold. Here’s a tip if you plan on going: Layer, layer, layer. Packing a few toe- and hand-warmers are key, as well.
It’s pretty easy for all ability levels to enjoy ski-touring in the park. The main roads are groomed for cross-country skiing. Tracks are set right outside Old Faithful Snow Lodge and Mammoth Hotel so skiers can warm up before setting out for the backcountry ski-tour options. Because Yellowstone is a plateau, it is well-situated for cross-country ski-touring. There’s a lot of terrain to choose from, including gently rolling areas suited for both beginners and steeper trails for those more advanced.
Guides can be found in Mammoth or Yellowstone ski shops. They can pull out a map and customize an option for a great day of touring. Alternatively, you can sign up for one of the park’s guided tours. The Yellowstone Association Institute offers a series of winter programs including field programs and winter lodging and learning packages to keep you busy on skis or off. Private eight-hour programs with an Institute naturalist/guide can be arranged that include topics “Wolves in Winter,” “Yellowstone by Ski or Snowshoe,” and “Wildlife Watching on the Northern Range.”
During the winter, the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel and the Old Faithful Snow Lodge are the only two overnight facilities open in the park. The Snow Lodge is only accessible by over-the-snow vehicles. The park’s winter season begins Dec. 18, with the opening of the Old Faithful Snow Lodge. The Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel opens Dec. 21, 2010. Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel will close for the season March 7, 2011, and Old Faithful Snow Lodge will close March 6, 2011.
To enter the park without your vehicle, Xanterra Parks and Resorts, the Park’s concessionaire, provides snowcoach service from the west entrance at West Yellowstone and the south entrance at Flagg Ranch. Call for advance reservations: 1-866-GEYSERLAND.
To learn more about the winter programs you can enjoy go to YellowstoneAssociation.org.
Ask about the “Winter Getaway” package with a rate starting at $54.50 per person per night for the upcoming season. For more information about reservations at Yellowstone National Park, visit Xanterra Parks & Resorts, at YellowstoneNationalParkLodges.com.
Like this story? Get more! Sign up for our free newsletters.






Comments
It is too bad that many of the young and healthy have shut older Americans that can't afford snowcoach trips from accessing this national treasure.
You comment is totally illogical. Snowmobiles are permitted. Are you complaining you can't take a private snowmobile unaccompanied?
If so, me thinks you're complaining on behalf of the young/middle aged and rich. I've never seen an elderly, poor person with a private $6,000+ motor toy.