Special blog

Cycle the Rockies, Part II

By Contributing Writers, 6-09-10

Last week New West published the first batch of blogs written by the eight university students cycling 700 miles across Montana to explore the state, its opportunities for producing clean energy, and the impacts of climate change.  Now in its fourth year, the University of Montana course “Cycle the Rockies: Energy and Climate Change in Montana,” is offered through the Wild Rockies Field Institute and led by Dave Morris, Nicky Phear, and Noah Pollock. The following is the next installment of the cyclists’ notes from the road, their second week, as they pass through the Musselshell River Valley and meet with local leaders pioneering renewable energy solutions. We hope you enjoy reading about the cyclists’ journey.

Check back again for more updates from the road as the cyclists head through Helena and north to Glacier before returning to Missoula.

Day Seven

Recovery Day, With Dose of Politics

By Andrew Scott, University of Kansas

We awoke this morning to a fresh layer of dew in the Roundup fairgrounds. Despite the fact that it was a relaxed day, I arose with a bum knee and what seemed like the onset of a cold. Yesterday’s uphill ride truly took it out of me. It is tough to wake up wondering how you will ride 650 more miles with a bad knee. We also completed our first section essay, which I feel went really well. We all took the full two hours and I think it’s safe to say we could have written for five hours easily. Our section essay entailed examining three to five concepts and supporting them using facts as well as experiences from the course. Most importantly, our section essays strongly encourage independent thinking, something that is so important in our current environmental situation, yet also something that has virtually disappeared in our society.

At 10:30 we headed to the famed Pioneer Cafe, best known for its fresh water and delicious pastries. It also is one of the few places that sell VHS and romance novels for fifty cents. VHS? Romance novels? For fifty cents? Unbeknown to us, the Pioneer Cafe would soon be etched into our memories where we met with State Representative Tom Berry. At first glance, Rep. Berry resembles a living mixture of a VHS with a Blu-Ray Disc, both classic and cutting edge. As he talked we began to see that this man is not outdated or obsolete as a VHS cassette. Our first questions were directed towards the Signal Peak Mine that we had toured the day before. While Berry is considered fairly conservative in the capitol of Helena, he showed us today that he is one of the endangered breed of independent-thinking politicians. This instance of independent-thinking is certainly not our only encounter, as you will soon see. 

As Representative Berry explained, the mine produces 10-12,000 BTU’s per ton. The mine is not currently producing at full capacity so it is expected to mine about 6 million tons this year. Once at full production, they plan to mine 10 million tons a year. 10 million tons a year is certainly a large amount, however the mining and transporting of such a quantity has done very little for Roundup’s economy. The main reason is the mine’s location. It is 17 miles south of Roundup and about 30 miles north of Billings. Therein lies the problem. Most of the workers live in Billings with a population of 100,000 people that has better shopping, medical treatment, and schools. Despite the fact the mine is closer to Roundup, the workers want to live in a bigger city such as Billings. Thus, as Mr. Berry noted, Roundup really only receives the negative effects of having a coal mine in such proximity to the town. These include effects on the land and illegal withdrawal of water from the Musselshell river, to name a few. Part of why Roundup has not seen much benefit is that the locally beneficial 5% gross proceeds tax has been deferred to help the mine get going and be profitable in the early years of its operation.

Although Representative Berry is one of the few independent-thinking politicians, it is important to note that he does work in the best interests of his constituency. He supports the coal mine because it will hopefully have a positive impact for the community, along with the fact that it has created jobs. Today was certainly a day of excitement even though it was only a recovery day. We encountered two different instances of independent thinking that hopefully will become more and more of the norm. We will soon meet Wilbur and Elizabeth Wood, two very independent-thinkers that have pioneered alternative energy at the grassroots level.

Day Eight

Bicycle Benefits

By Logan Piepmeier, University of Vermont

I woke up this morning to find our host Jeanne had prepared us a pancake breakfast, making her my favorite person of all time right then and there. Pancakes, sausages, and eggs all in portions as generous as last night’s dinner (i.e. very). Jeanne is yet another amazing and generous person we’ve met on this trip.

As Dave observed yesterday, it can be hard not to feel like a celebrity on a bike tour. Everyone we run into wants to make us dinner, give us a place to sleep, or just talk about our ride. Jeanne did all three, not only making us two feasts, but letting us invade her living room and sleep on her (earthen) roof. But all along the way we’ve been met with generosity. Kim from Harlow volunteered without hesitation to shuttle Nicky’s car 60 miles to White Sulfur Springs so that Nicky and Michael could ride with us for a couple of days. In Roundup, Father Dan took the time to call all around town to find us a place to take warm showers. One woman in the grocery store even bought us all Starbursts when she overheard what we were doing. I keep being surprised by how generous people have been towards these smelly, haggard, worn-out bicyclists that roll into town.

After breakfast with Jeanne, we had to say goodbye and ride towards Harlowton to visit the Judith Gap wind farm. Now, the problem with riding to a wind farm is that they tend to put them where the wind is. And of all the world’s windy places, Judith Gap is recognized as one of the best for wind harvesting. So we were in for either an effortless ride propelled by the wind or a slow battle against it. It was the latter.

After a hard 25 miles, we decided against riding up to the wind farm. So we set up camp in the town campground—next to the county’s high school rodeo. And then we set up camp (in the figurative sense) in the warm, dry Snowy Mountain Café for the next three hours, where we were met with even more people happy to hear about our adventure and a staff happy to warm us up with coffee and hot chocolate.

All the people we’ve encountered so far have me really excited for another three weeks of touring. Compared to flying or driving, we are moving at a snail’s pace, but the interactions we’ve had along the way are more genuine, pleasant, and numerous than small talk with the guy sitting next to you on the airplane. I think this is one way of travelling I look forward to doing throughout my life.

Day 9

Common Sense Solutions

By Sam Hitchcock, Montana State University

Today we got acquainted with the powerful Montana wind in our riding and learning. Common Sense solutions both help Montana produce renewable abundant energy and help us ride through these winds without killing ourselves. With a new cyclist and venture capitalist along for the ride our crew got a good insight into small scale micro hydro electrical generation before heading to the Martinsdale Hutterite colony for a lesson on heat exchangers and wind power.

We set out into a headwind that was sucking our energy dry so we broke for lunch a bit early near an irrigation ditch, where Michael described us one of the innovations he is investing in. The company, Natel Energy has developed small turbines that turn by the force of flowing water to generate electricity. This product could be easily inserted into irrigation canals. The small scale concept would ideally be owned by irrigation districts and help farmers get more from the scarce water resources of arid western lands. As 70% of our water is used for agricultural practices, it makes sense to maximize beneficial uses whenever possible. Communities in the area can economically profit from ownership of power production while lowering agricultural operating costs. Seeing some common sense solutions helped us find some for riding. We began to rotate our leader out to split the wind load while drafting each other, reaching Martinsdale in no time!

Soon after our arrival, we met with Peter Wipf, the financial and technical overseer for the Martinsdale Hutterite colony. The Hutterites are a group of religious faithful that live a completely communal lifestyle in colonies throughout Montana and in parts of Canada. A cultural experience nobody expected was about to unfold. Peter invited us in to see the colonies wind turbines and heat exchanger. Although these people made their own clothes, grew their own foods, and dressed in only black and white, they are no strangers to technology. Walking into the colony, awkwardness turned quickly to comfort as curious stares changed to friendly smiles. These people are proud of their unconventional way of life and did not shy away from aiding our learning experience. Peter showed us their common sense approach to capturing heat energy and encouraging wind development for funding that sustains their way of life.

The colony uses a heat exchanger to capture waste heat from the food refrigeration system, effectively meeting all their hot water needs at no extra cost. The colony earns income from 18 wind turbines on their land, which, as Peter put it, are a source of “free money”. In addition, the colony stands to earn an additional $3,500 per turbine, once a plan for 36 new 2.5 MW turbines is finalized. He explained to us that with an eighteen-foot diameter footprint per turbine, the development causes little interference with their agricultural practices. It is hard to think of a crop that pays so well on so little land!

As we said farewell to our new friends, thoughts of common sense solutions bounced around in our heads while rotating duty of wind blocker. We made it to the “town” of Checkerboard with our tanks on empty but a collective sense of accomplishment. From hydro to wind our day was full of simple solutions to curbing our appetite for dirty fuels. With 44 of our hardest miles behind us, it was common sense to have a burger and collapse into the grass.

Day 10

Crossing The Gap

By Adam Mauro, Montana State University

Today we awoke to partially cloudy skies and a nice breeze. Our day began with fresh air, good food, and good company; we were all excited for our trip to the Judith Gap Wind Farm. I’ve heard about “The Gap” for years in my classes at Montana State University, and jumping on my bike, I felt like I could conquer anything to get up there.

Unfortunately, as we got on the road, I realized that nice breeze had evolved into a terrible headwind. Man, those fifteen miles were tough! Plugging away on the road, my hope was renewed when I saw the wind turbines in the distance, but that hope was short lived. Those wind turbines are so big that they gave the illusion of being closer than they really were. After what seemed like eternity (probably only a few miles) we made it to the flagship wind farm in Montana.

The Judith Gap Wind Farm is run by Invenergy, an energy company based in Chicago, Illinois. This 90 turbine network produces 135 megawatts of power for consumers in and outside of Montana. Judith Gap Wind Farm has a 41% capacity factor, meaning that it produces, on average, 41% of its full power. While this sounds low, Judith Gap Wind farm is actually one of the highest performing wind farms in the country. And believe me, that wind is powerful!

Arriving at the site, we discussed the potential that this lucrative resource has in transforming local economies. Energy corporations rent relatively small tracts of land from farmers for high prices. Farmers around Judith Gap are paid $2,500-$3,500 per each turbine that resides on their land. These mammoth turbines have the potential to bring stability to agriculture, a historically unstable trade. Besides the shear size of the machines, I was surprised at how quietly they operated. I’ve always heard about the noise pollution wind turbines emit. I brought this concern up to the group; in response I learned that while earlier designed wind turbines were very noisy, the more advanced designs operate virtually silently.

It was surreal to see these monumental structures spinning above me. Just knowing that with every turn of the blades, families across America were able to operate with renewable energy, gave me hope.

Montana has a huge potential for wind development. I’d love to see my state, Montana take its place where it should be, at the top, as the 4th or 5th largest producer of wind energy in the country. With around 400 MW of current production and the potential for thousands more, we need to make sure that this development is done in a sustainable manner. Just because wind farms are renewable energy sources, it doesn’t mean that they can’t have adverse effects upon our environment. Placement on native prairies and in migratory bird and bat routes can be disastrous. Thankfully, wind energy companies are increasing cognizant of these issues and taking steps to reduce the ecological impacts. 

As our discussion wrapped up someone noticed that some of the turbines seemed to be switching their orientation. Computers monitor the wind and the turbines pivot to make the electricity generation as efficient as possible. To our dismay the winds had shifted enough to offer us another headwind riding back into town. Talk about bad luck! No matter, everyone was stoked after our discussion, and plus…I was expecting this. Like the changes we have to make in the ways and means we get our energy, nobody said this class was going to be easy.

Day 11

Boon For Calhoun, Independent Superintendents

Aleta Jokisch, University of Montana

Today’s theme: independent thinkers doing awesomely beneficial things. The awesomely beneficial experience began this morning at Sarah Calhoun’s place of business, Red Ants Pants- Work Wear for Women; the only line of work pants designed solely with women’s sizing in mind (over 70 sizes!). Last night, Sarah ever so kindly let us pitch our tents in her backyard and made us some pretty incredible elk burgers. Aside from providing us with a warm place to have class (the Red Ants Pants store front), Sarah shared the impressive story of her business with us before we left for Townsend.

The 40 mile ride from White Sulfur to Townsend yielded beautiful weather and new inspiration. The ride began with a beautiful, gradual climb and culminated in a sweeping downhill alongside a creek through the Helena National Forest. 

Upon arriving, the ten of us met Brian Patrick, superintendant extraordinaire for the Townsend school (K-12). The work done by Brian, in unison with others such as Mia Whitfield truly sets the school apart. For starters, the school is heated using wood pellet boiler, a project initiated in 2005 and expected to save $1 million over the next 30 years. The total cost for the biomass system, $415,000, was paid in part by the Fuels for Schools program.

Townsend School also utilizes other sources of renewable energy. Take, for instance, the wind turbine that will single handedly produce the electricity needed to power the lights surrounding the Bulldogs’ football field. Situated on the roof of the school, just across from the wind turbine, 23 kWh worth of solar panels serve as another powerful visual (and savings…the solar panels save the school $3,500 per year). As we discovered later in the evening while camping out in the high school hallways and setting off lights, the school has also used federal stimulus money wisely by investing in motion sensitive lighting. While energy efficient, this technology thwarted attempts to play a late night game of basketball!

For the school and Brian Patrick, these projects certainly make financial sense; they are taking advantage of federal and state low interest loans and grants, saving a substantial amount of money in the process. Yet speaking with Brian, it is obvious that he has much more in mind. Townsend has a population of 2,000 - the school’s roughly 725 young people are a sizable presence in the town. For this reason, the school’s commitment to renewable, on-site energy serves as an educational tool for both kids and the community. Students see the solar panels, the silo filled with wood pellets, the wind turbine, and they are reminded of where their energy comes from every day. The classroom provides a place to expand upon the initial visual example. The technology behind these new additions is easily transferable to school projects and curriculum.  On top of all of this, the school serves as a community center of sorts; it is an integral, energy efficient part of Townsend.

See, awesomely beneficial.

Perhaps a woman who makes and sells her own line of work pants and a man dedicated to educating students through energy efficiency do not seem to have similar job descriptions. However, Sarah and Brian are both great examples of how one person’s motivation and ingenuity can create change. Thanks to Sarah, female union laborers, trail builders and construction workers have proper attire. Thanks to Brian, Townsend School is a beacon of renewable energy.

For their hospitality and inspiration, they are both truly appreciated by this group of ten cyclists, too.

Editor’s note: Learn more about the Townsend School’s energy efficiency initiatives here

Day 12

Hot and Steamy in White Sulphur Springs

By Sam Hitchcock, Montana State University

Pedaling northwest from Checkerboard this morning, we met with the promise of downhill, the so far elusive experience whereby the movement of one’s legs is optional.  I needed an explanation of what this experience would entail after three continuous days of climbing against a headwind. I am convinced that Checkerboard’s first residents shared my sentiments, saying “good enough!” when they established their unique mountain town.  If only they knew of the descent just beyond the next rise, or the hot water waiting 20 miles away, the town may not have taken root.  For below the Belt Mountains sits the sleepy outpost of White Sulphur Springs, a hot spot for both healing and renewable energy production.

I pumped my fist hard as I led our class into town in what I’m sure was the same relief and excitement felt by Lance Armstrong as he pushed the peloton through the mountain stage of the Tour du France.  We continued the ten blocks down Main Street and slowed in front of the White Sulphur Springs Spa, where we were greeted by Gene Gudmundson, the owner of the spa - as well as a licensed chiropractor and acupuncturist. 

As we recovered in the lobby, Gudmundson described the virtues of the hot springs that beckoned us from behind the plate glass. The springs, enriched with sulphur (hence the town’s moniker), lithium, magnesium, and other naturally occurring elements, once served as a place of peace for the Flathead, Crow, and the Blackfeet peoples. A pseudo demilitarized zone, the 120 degree waters represented a place of healing. Though now developed, the White Sulphur Springs Spa holds true to the original use of those waters. Not only do the hot springs offer relief from physical ailments, but also relief from fossil fuels.

Gudmundson has spent the last two decades developing the only place in Montana that features energy production from solar, wind, and geothermal. The geothermal energy, used for the hot springs, also heats the rooms of the on-site motel. Through a simple heat-exchange system, municipal water and hot water from the geothermal well pass next to each other via a series of metal plates. The municipal water is heated and pumped to the rooms, while the sulphur-rich water is returned to a nearby stream, where the spring water naturally surfaces. In conjunction with the geothermal heating system, a small windmill and two large solar photovoltaic panels (purchased with the help of a $10,000 grant from Montana Power ten years ago) allow the White Sulphur Springs Spa to achieve 70% energy independence.

Gudmundson has a personal interest in the use of renewable energy technology, voicing his dismay over the environmental damage associated with oil use. “Oil brings absolute catastrophe down the line,” he remarked, solemnly shaking his head. Beyond his preference for energy independence, Gene certainly understands the economic value of local energy production. The natural heat source will also warm a soon-to-be greenhouse from which Gene hopes to grow tomatoes, melons, and other healthy treats for guests. Gene is willing to share this bountiful source of energy with the community as well. The high school, sitting adjacent to the spa, is developing plans to supplement their heating using this geothermal heat source, reducing their winter heating expenses.

It was exciting to see so much potential for a renewable energy future in small-town White Sulphur Springs. If it’s possible here, it’s possible anywhere. Conservation behavior can be an additional benefit to independent energy production. Gudmundson notes that, “when you make alternative energy, you appreciate the idea of conserving that energy”. Inspired by what I saw, I decided to partake in my own version of energy conservation as I slid into the mineral infused waters of the spa for a long soak.

Day 13

Resilience

By Alison Wren, University of Montana

Resilience: to spring back or rebound. To recover from or adjust easily to misfortune or change.

No doubt about it - today was one of the most mentally and physically challenging days of my life. We cycled 60 miles from Townsend to Helena, the last ten miles of which were uphill, in the rain. Miles I wouldn’t have covered had it not been for the wide range of personalities, characteristics, and strengths the other members of our group offer, which gives us resilience.

I believe that resilience is built through facing opposition and developing a diverse pool of strength, talent, passion, and opportunity that provides resources. In order to survive this ordeal - both the next 200 miles of cycling and the approaching affects of climate change - our group and the country will have to foster the diversity that creates that resilience.

Like the early days of our country’s fossil fuel use, energy was plentiful and progress was rapid for the first part of our ride. We cruised out of Townsend with the sun shining and began to ride around Canyon Ferry Lake. Stopping to rest, we suddenly found ourselves in the path of a herd of escaped horses followed by a cowboy in a Ford pickup. We jumped to the side of the road and watched as the horses frantically ran around us before being turned towards home by the honking and cursing cowboy, leaving us standing in their cloud of dust, shocked and laughing hysterically.

Without thought of the miles ahead, we powered along, enjoying the thrill of our speed. I was carefree and loving the ride, thinking little of my body’s need to conserve energy for the upcoming miles. Our country seems to have made the same mistake, by failing to plan for our future energy needs.

Around mile 40, I felt the loss of strength in my legs. As the fatigue spread from my body to my brain, I began to tell myself that I just couldn’t go any further. At the top of a hill, looking down on the 15 miles left in to Helena, I was ready to call it quits.

And I would have, if it hadn’t been for the resilience that the group provided. Our ten is made up a great range of personalities each with their own unique characteristics and quirks. Aleta, the cross-country runner who never tires, helps us see what hard work and persistence can achieve. Morgan, the pleaser, has an endless supply of jokes and optimism. Matt, the sweet tooth, carries candy in his pocket that he’s always willing to share. Andrew always carries on without complaint or hesitation, despite an injured knee. Sam and Logan, with their steady presence, keep us grounded. Adam, the motivator, never stops cheering us all on up the hills, and our instructors, Dave and Noah, who keep telling us it’s a little further (whether it’s true or not) push us onward and upward.

Alone, I would have never done something as difficult as biking 60 miles through the wind and rain, but the strength of the group inspired me to make it to Helena. Similarly, in order to mitigate the effects of climate change and build resilient communities we must foster diversity through different land management practices, varied energy sources, and a wide array of individual strengths.

The diverse and myriad characters of our group provided the resilience we needed to complete the ride. Likewise, every community needs to draw from its diversity, building the resilience needed to switch to a green economy and adapt to climate change. We’ve learned over the last 450 miles that every place contains the resources to build resilience, something that will be necessary in the future. By focusing our energies on the possibilities provided to us by the strengths of the land and people around us, we can build stronger, more resilient communities.

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