The Eater

Off the Tortilla Charts with Spic and Span


By Emily Esterson, 9-19-06

 
 

After you've lived in New Mexico for awhile, a funny thing happens. Instead of buying bread at the supermarket, you buy tortillas. It doesn't even occur to me to buy bread. I go straight to the Albuquerque Tortilla Factory stand just beyond produce, and purchase two bags of the flour version (my husband, however, prefers corn).

Somedays, when I'm home alone, I like to have butter and apricot jam (from the local feed store) on my tortilla for lunch. And maybe a snack, too. In fact, I've been known to have such a treat for breakfast, and the New Mexico version of grilled cheese for lunch (a.k.a a quesidilla), and perhaps another jam/butter tortilla for snack.

Over the weekend, though, I learned of the inferiority of what I thought were pretty good tortillas (even if they are somewhat uniform in shape and tend to turn to rubber after too long in the fridge, they are still much better than Wonder Bread). Friends living in Las Vegas, NM turned us on to Charlie's Spic and Span, where I may have had the best green chile cheeseburger of my life. On the way out the door, I impulsively purchased a bag of their homemade tortillas. This, to quote Anthony Bourdain in last night's "No Reservations" is pillowy-goodness. Wow. My husband and I killed off that 25-count of tortillas in two very short days. I think I doubled my average daily intake. These were tortillas to die for.

They were surely misshapen, but they tasted like lard and flour and the smoke of the tortilla griddle all at tthe same time. They have nice tan spots, like the hides of roan-colored paint horses. They were thick in some places and thin in others, but that's what made them so good. When I touched that package, I wanted to just lay my head against it.

My husband and I, despite stringent exercise routines, haven't been losing weight. Periodically we say, at the supermarket, "no more tortillas! That's the reason!" Now that we've discovered tortilla heaven, but it happens to be 120 miles from here, maybe it will be easier to swear off the state bread. Once the memory of the Spic and Span tortillas fade, will we go back to the Albuquerque Tortilla Factory version? Somehow I still believe we'll settle for the more uniform, less pillowy version, at least until we can get back to Las Vegas.



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Comments

By Colonel Bain, 9-19-06
By Eunice Farmilant, 9-20-06
By Marcia, 9-20-06
By Eunice Farmilant, 9-20-06
By Colonel Bain, 9-21-06
By Emily Esterson, 9-21-06
By Colonel Bain, 9-21-06
By Megan Kamerick, 9-29-06
By Michael L. Sokol, 10-08-06
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By A friend of Michael's, 10-09-06
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